Week Number Two - Hospitality

For the last two days I stayed in Shimonita, close to the mountain Arafuyane (over 1000m high). There I put up my camp on a derelict field.

Within a few minutes a few locals "had to" walk their dogs... So they could inspect me. One of them was very excited as I told him I was a Doitsu-jin (German) and he told me that there is someone he knows who speaks Doitsu-go. Within 20 minutes he came back with this guy who lived in Germany for nine years and who was happy to speak some German. We chatted for a while and then he took off, only to return with his daughter who also spoke German and wanted to practice... Next morning I woke up to clear the tent from the rain in the night and what did I see next to my tent? Breakfast, homemade bread, jam, a huge apple and some filter coffee sachets. WOW - what a surprise! I had bought some small gifts in London and now was the time for one of them. Not remembering the guy's name I went to town to find him and give the gift to him. This brought me to a garage where the manager helped with all his might (and his wife) to figure out what I want. "Nihon-jin, Doitsu-go doko desu ka?" = "Where does the Japanese guy lives who speaks German?" He obviously didn't know but his wife brought me by car to the next church which was run by an American. She wasn't home, so we returned to the garage. I said 'sumimasen' and 'arrigato gozaimashita' (apologising for the trouble and thanking them) and went back to the camp. Within half an hour the manager's wife came with the happy news that they now know who it was I am looking for: Mr Ishizeki-san (picture above; together with his daughter). Well, well, in the evening he would drop by my tent so we can talk they told me. I decided to go to the nearby river to have a swim, cut some bamboo stick to train with and to enjoy the sunshine. When I got back to my tent I found another surprise - lunch! Again totally surprised, I ate the riceballs in noda (seaweed) and the bamboo roots or something like it (picture right). The little fish these roots were covered with had to go to the grasshoppers. For dessert I had strawberries - THANK YOU. In the evening Mr Ishizeki came and invited me to his home for some dinner and we talked little more in German. His wife made delicious salad, soup and rice (explaining that I was very happy with this as a vegetarian). Mr Ishizeki had to go to a town meeting and I left, too.

Back at tent I would have a good night's rest - so I thought. Another lady came by in her car to pick up some soil for her garden. We greeted and she asked where I come from and where I go, and I explained that I sleep in the tent. 20 minutes later she arrived with a pot of noodle soup which by now was a struggle to eat as I was altready full. But I managed. These are some very friendly and hospitable people in Shimonita!

The next morning I packed my things together and was just slightly excited at crossing this big mountain. I had a banana and coffee for breakfast as there was nothing else to eat since I didn't plan on staying on that field for 2 days. At the next Kombini I had some riceballs and 500 ml grapefruit juice to get me going for the ride ahead.

The mountain was steep and I crossed 16 bridges, went through five tunnels of which two were very scary and long. The last one (at 1000m) was without pavement so I put on all my lights (three), took a deep breath and cycled as fast as I could through it. The lorries behind me had to wait for oncoming traffic to overtake me and the oncoming traffic would carry noise and wind with it, so I had to grasp my handlebar tightly to keep control. SCARY.

At the other side of the mountain I cycled upwards on a small road hoping for an Onsen (natual bath/ mineral bath). But I misread the sign and it was just a path leading to the very top of the mountain. I made my descent from there with some luch in my stomach (toast & jam) to find the nearest Onsen. Halfway down the mountain I saw the sign and went onto a small road to the natural bath.

There I happily paid YEN 800 (£ 5.50) for a bath. I was the only visitor so I had it all to myself. I removed my clothes, washed and then submersed my aching body into the HOOOOT water, ouch - I felt pain from my legs over to my arms, neck, shoulders as I got a good sunburn from the climb up. I tried the less hot bath (picture left) and cold shower after. This repeated itself for another 40min until I had enough and my skin was all soft. I found a nice, free, high-tech massage chair (picture right) which did just the right thing for my aching muscles. Then I continued my journey into the valley at top speed of 40 mph with the much cooler wind in my face.

I looked for a nice camp spot and found one, or did it find me - in a Buddhist Shrine. Quick shopping for dinner at the supaa, looking for some firewood for my little campfire, and with peanuts & green tea into the evening after a long and exhausting but really good day. I will leave here in 1 day going to Matsumoto to see the castle and to find a way out of the Japanese Alps (going to over 3000 m high) to make my way to the sea. By now I have done 200miles and I have enjoyed every bit of it. Over and out. Dirkus Japanensus