My Challenge: 1000 Miles through Japan

What’s my challenge? My challenge is to ride 1000 miles on my bike and to discover the country and culture of Japan. On my journey, beginning 3rd May 2009 (until 15th June), I hope to get a glimpse of other people’s LifeDreams, their hopes, aspirations, and challenges in this life. After all, life is what people make of it and I expect to see that people in Japan have their own take on it. Whenever one is faced with the unfamiliar, our spirit awakes. This journey through Japan will definitely kick my comfort zone as I will get lost, be faced with decisions I never had to make, meet people I never met before, and encounter the unfamiliar culture and customs of the Japanese which will definitely challenge me to embrace the new and make the most of everything which comes my way.


All this will be done on a tight budget and I will be camping throughout the 6 weeks living off my camping stove and what the land and people provide… On the right you can see a calligraphy of the word 'warrior spirit' something to be attained through steady practice of a still, honest, and open heart. I am very much into practicing martial arts and have done so over many years. It has shown me that even though one experiences pain there is always a lesson to be learned. The path towards success/ liberation is not the one with roses on each side but the thorny and rocky path. This challenge will be such a journey where I will encounter many challenges but come out stronger and, hopefully, a little wiser ;)

With this challenge I wish to raise money for Embrace Cooperation, the not-for profit company I work for, in order to establish a fund for young entrepreneurs who wish to set-up their own businesses and projects. I am inviting you to sponsor me to support this cause. Embrace has over 150 young adults who come through our doors every year and especially those who are with us for longer-term placements are invited to prepare their LifeDreams with us. Many of them have business ideas (their own fashion shops, cafe's, IT companies, crafts businesses or sustainable farming) and projects which they are passionate about. Embrace supports young adults from the UK, Europe, and from Africa (pictures left: Milkyas Mesfin from Ethiopia and Michaela Ruhland from Germany who have great entrepreneurial spirit and business ideas).

Together with YOU we can help Embrace raise the money they need and can offer interest free loans for these young entrepreneurs, small test-trading grants and dedicated business support and mentoring. Please sponsor me in any way shape or form you wish. You can buy ONE mile for £10 or €10 and it is my aim to get sponsorship for 1000 bicycle miles which I WILL cycle - no matter what!

You can sponsor me by donating CASH or money in cheques (payable to 'Embrace Cooperation Ltd', ESMC 1000 Miles, Embrace Cooperation, 3 St. Cloud Road, SE27 9PN London, UK) or you can put the money into Embrace's bank account (reference: ESMC 1000 Miles):

Embrace Cooperation Ltd
Account Name: 02940748
Sort Code: 30-96-07
Lloyds TSB Bank Plc

PAYPAL is available too (just hit the DONATE button on the right).... thank YOU so much for YOUR contribution to making other's LifeDreams come true! you know what's gonna happen ...what goes around...cycles around...

1100 Miles Challenge - tick

It has been accomplished! 6 weeks in Japan have come to an end, 1100 miles (1800 Km) are cycled. It has not just been a bicycle tour but also a spiritual journey through a land where a large proportion actively worships the myriads of gods and goddesses. The sheer amount of temples and shrines are good reminders to stop for a quick prayer, pick up some `holy` water or protective stickers for your car to enhance safe driving.


I somehow feel connected now to a land which is so full of contrasts, where ancient temples stand next to skyscrapers competing for height. The experiences and memories from this journey will stay with and nourish me for a long time to come.

Most astonishing customs and ingrained behaviour patterns have definitely left an unforgettable impression on my soul. The politeness, seriousness at work, customer service generally...make this land a role model for many `Western` countries where we had to invent words such as `service desert` and regularly get annoyed at things not working or being in a state of constant chaos and in deep disagreement with `how things ought to be.` Of course there were also things that I observed in Japan which really went on my nerves such as the absolute disrespect for cyclists displayed by some lorry drivers, people leaving their cars on whilst going shopping at kombini`s (corner shops), inadequate cycling paths on potentially dangerous sections of roads. However, nothing is perfect and considering all the up`s then these things really didn`t spoil the soup.


Overall, I was able to experience first hand how open hearted, hospitable, kind and generous the people are that I have met. In the blog I really only mentioned some of the things that happened to me and left out a multitude of experiences which have made this 1000 Miles Challenge a 1100 Miles Pleasure. Whilst being physically draining and needing urgent service (both, bike and me), I now have a very clear image and feeling of how I want to continue living my life. Of course, many things were set before I came to Japan because I have been intending them, but, new attention has been given to different aspects of my life ranging from perfect health to financial prosperity over to healthy and happy relationships. The one book I took with me, The Law of Attraction (The Secret behind the Secret), has been an inspiration throughout the journey. I actually read it twice, just to make sure the key lessons will stay with me.

Some of the most memorable events of my visit to Japan were:

• Sitting in the bathtub together with some tattooed Yakuza (Asama Onsen in Matsumoto),
• The unforgettable scent, atmosphere and uphill struggle of Route 360 (Takayama to Toyama),
  
• Sitting by the river and having sushi with Minoru-san & my first crystal bowl concert with Ikuko-san (Kanazawa),
• Campfire and grilling fresh fish with Yoshiaki and Nishiyama (Noto, Wajima),
  
• Racing along the scenic coastline on the R8 (from Toyama to Joetsu),
• Being in solitude and at peace, and of course intuitively finding a new camp spot every other day...

What`s next! Well, I am intending to write a book connecting the lifestyle and stories of Samurai, their Budo, during the Edo Period (1603 - 1868) whilst cycling through some of the important parts of Japan in the present.


I will also make a short film of the hours of video which I shot here using my small camera. This should be an entertaining `Cycling in Japan` home movie... so, watch this space! thanks again to all the supporters of this adventure! Together we have raised over £1000 which will be used to start the Seed Money Challenge Fund supporting young entrepreneurs. There will be another 1000 Miles Challenge in May 2010 from Landsend (Cornwall, UK) to John O'Groats (Scotland). If you are interested in joining let me know...


Kyotse kete and
domo arigato gozaimashita,

dirk

31st May - 3rd June, Going `Home` ... a final push

This is my journey from Toyama, the coast of the Sea of Japan, back to Noda, near Tokyo. The whole journey was about 380 Km and took me 4 days going from the coast over the Northern Japanese Alps and back into flatland. Starting out from Toyama was a challenge as it rained hard throughout the night and drizzled in the morning when i got up at around 7am. I used the morning rain to check the Internet in Toyama eki (train station) for an hour and also to fill up on drinks here for free. I got back to the tent at 10am, packed up and got ready to leave. By now the drizzle had become rain again and I had to put on my `wet-suit` which is at least keeping me dry for a while. The road out from Toyama (R8) was pretty dense with traffic and it didn`t make it any better that it rained. I had to cycle on the road as the cycle paths were really challenging due to the many interruptions and unneccessary bents. These all sap of my energy so I prefer riding on the main road where there are less interruptions but one has to deal with cars who aim to overtake with as little distance as possible. The R8 then became more quiet and turned into a beautiful road along the coast (see picture).

After 30 Km the rain stopped and I really enjoyed the steep rises of the road and the curvy downhills through tunnels and past spectacular coastal scenery. I stopped many times to do video or to take pictures. By now I rode with the Kamikaze (holy wind) and on straights was able to do 40 Km/h - this was amazing and I set my target for doing as many Km today as possible. I got to Joetsu and was still on the coast where i put up my tent by the beach. I did 120 Km in 6h cycling and now needed a bath and food. The Hideki family (picture) let me have a bath in their home after they explained to me that the local public bath was closed for a few weeks and the one in the city was prohibitively expensive. They gave me also some packed lunch and we chatted a little while.

The next day I went onto R253 which lead me into the mountains and onto the R17 whiich I was going to follow almost all the way back to Tokyo. The R253 was not for the faint hearted as there were many steep climbs, quite a few lorries and no cycle path whatsoever. This road must have gone up to about 1000m above sea level and the last tunnel before going to Minamiounuma (phew...what a name) provided a really breathtaking view into the valley and the promise for a good and long downhill section (picture). Just what I needed now! With my adrenalin pumping through my venes I raced down at top speed, overtaking the occasional car, and into Minamiounuma where I had a nice bath, put up my tent near the river, washed my clothes in the river, had dinner and went to bed around 10pm pretty exhausted.

The next day was a hard day all along the R17 and through one of Japan`s winter sports resorts at over 2000m high (Naeda). The towns I cycled through seemd like ghost town with huge hotels, closed restaurants and sight of the lift stations and nice but green slopes. These towns only come alive in winter but in summer a few walkers and hikers make the climbs up the many mountains. This day`s ride took me through really narrow, slippery tunnels and I decided to put myself in the middle of my side of the road to stop lorries from overtaking me inside the tunnel if there was oncoming traffic. Inside the tunnels it seemed like cycling through streams of water running down and the dim light didn`t help either. Out of last tunnel, finally. Another really breathtaking view into the Numata valley signalled the end of the mountains (just small hills). The downhill into Numata was the longest of the whole journey and I did 20Km going down all the way into flatland. Making good progress I went onto the R354 to Isesaki. A small shrine was quickly found to put up my tent, have dinner, no bath and sleep. I got up feeling dirty from the last day`s ride but packed up being very excited as this was my final push to Noda. I followed the R354 to the R4 which would then take me to the R16 and to Noda. This was THE most annying cycling day ever. Some cars seemed to completely disregard me as a fellow traffic participant and it felt they aimed at overtaking with a max. distance of 25cm. At the traffic lights I would catch up with some and made wild gestures whilst cursing them in English. Whether it helped I am not sure but I made my point... The cycle paths were almost unusable for me due to their intelligent design ;) (see picture).

Today I did 80Km and got to Noda around 4pm. I was soo relieved, put up my tent in the temple again, found the local sento, a really huge one with different baths and saunas for only Yen 550. I bought some food and fell into a deep and long sleep having done almost 400 Km in the 4 days. The next days will be spent training here in Noda and recovering from the exciting but physically draining last 4 days. I am now at 71 Kg and need to eat my way back up again having nice fish and finding new ways of grilling and frying it. I am sooo happy that this whole journey passed without any accidents. My prayers at the different shrines and temples for a save and exciting journey must have worked. I feel really connected now also spiritually as I am kind of exhausted but in very high spirits and full of energy despite the `little` weight loss. I am looking forward to my last week here before returning home to loved ones, family and creating the life I have intended to have.

There will be one or two more posts concluding my adventure and before completing the 1000 Miles Challenge. In terms of distance I am now at 1630 Km (1012 miles - yeh) but will rake up a few more before the end of the week exploring the local neighbourhood.

25th May - 30th May, Noto Peninsula

After seeing mountains now for at least two weeks it was time for a scenery change. The Noto Peninsula with Kanazawa at its feet, Wajima on the top and Tayama again in the South would be my journey for these five days where I did some 450 km along the coast. I started out in Kanazawa where I was woken up by Minorou again who would invite me to his home where I would have my last Miso soup and rice. I left Kanazawa with both sadness and joy at the same time, because I met really cool people here and because I began to really get used to this very cosmopolitan city. It has been the best four days here in a city so far and I have not seen everything the city has to offer. This will have to wait for next time. For now, I was also happy to have some road under my tyres. On this day I would, for the first time, see the Sea of Japan. I took the Toll Road (or better its nice cycle path) up north to get to Wajima. The Japanese cycle paths/ pedestrian walkways are excellent and going north was pretty straightforward. I tried to stay by the coast whenever possible, but this sometimes meant to get off the bike and walk through the sand dunes as these have shifted onto the cycle path.

The first very interesting thing on the first day was the Coast Highway - a Highway directly on the beach, no concrete, just sand. There is two-lane traffic, without any signs or hard shoulder of course. On one side water, on the other dunes and some small shops. I had to get on this road. For the next 2 km I cycled on sand, which was hardened by the cars going over it - spectacular. In the evening I put up camp by the cost with amazing views over Gammon (a rocky coast with many caves).

The next day I got to Wajima where I quickly needed to find an ofuro (public bath). With this accomplished I went to the supermarket and then back to the beach-side camp. There I met Yoshiaki and Nishiyama, fellow travellers on motor horses (moped/ motor bike). We had much fun in the evenings trying to communicate in English and Japanese. The next day I went to town to check the morning market. Wajima is a fishing town and the morning market reflected this. Wajima is also known for its durable and colourful lacquerware and there are many shops selling local crafts ware. I was not tempted by the fish and the laquerware was pretty expensive so I just strolled along. Thinking I found a post office I went into one shop but it turned out to be a liquor store with Post Office flags in the front. However, they did have free internet. In the evening Yoshiaki and I would make a campfire and as he offered me some of his grilled fish I could not say no. This decision was not easy considering I have not been eating fish for six years. However, the scale in the public bath told me to do something as I have so far lost 8 kg. This was not a good sign and my tofu and beans diet for protein wasn’t doing it. From this day onwards I would have fish for the next few days, eating at least 1.5 kg in 3 days and managing to keep my weight where it was. The fish must have also done something else for my now worn out body as my wrists stopped hurting and my muscles recovered quicker after a day riding, so it seemed.

From Wajima I went to the furthest part North-East to see the Lighthouse, the famous terrace rice fields and checked out the Onsen. This day was spectacular despite a challenging ride along the coast. The onsen made it all worth it again. After then 120 Km I was pretty tired and I just wanted to fall over by the roadside. I stayed by the beach and put up my tent just there. Friendly locals told me not to make fire but all I wanted was to eat (salad & 500g fresh fish) and sleep. The next day was another 80 Km along the coast with spectacular sight of the mountains which must be over 250 km away and over 3000 m high and seemed ever so fearful knowing I have to climb over them again. By the 30th I got to Toyama where I needed to urgently find an ofuro, photo shop, supermarket and camp spot. Overall I have now done 1180 Km but one of the most challenging parts was still to come, the Northern Alps and 500 km. My body is starting to get tired quicker but I am sure that with a better diet and simply eating more everything will be fine.

Here some stats:

Weight at start of the tour: 80 Kg

Weight at present: 72 Kg Total distance covered: 1180 Km

Average daily distance: 70 Km

Longest daily distance: 120 Km

Highest speed: 68 Km/h

Lowest speed: 2 Km/h (with eventual standstill walking up to the Noto Lighthouse)

Daily food intake: 6 slices of wheat toast, 2 eggs, 1 tomato, 1 Grapefruit, 3 Bananas, 100 g bean sprouts, 1 small cucumber, 300g tofu or 500g fish, 100 - 180g peanuts

Daily liquid intake: 3 - 4 L (tea, water, juice)

Bike repairs: 2 flat tyres, 1 rear tyre exchanged (worn out), 1 inner tube exchanged (dead), 1 brake block exchanged (worn out), rear rack fixed (welding gave up), front cog repaired (lost a screw and bent the cog)

Pages written in diary: 60 Din A 4

Kanazawa

This is a long report as I stayed in Kanazawa for four actual days. Arriving in Kanazawa after a short (30 km) cycle seemed like coming into a city which I knew. I quickly found a nice tent spot near by the river, close to the town centre (10 minutes cycle ride). My tent was well hidden in high grass (picture right) and only locals walked their dogs in the evening or morning. I went on to explore the city for the first day to get some kind of orientation as it’s been by far the biggest city so far with almost 500,000 inhabitants, mostly Japanese, but also quite a few foreigners from pretty much everywhere. They do stand out here as there are really quite a few of them who stay here for short or long.

Kanazawa is right by the Sea of Japan and I was happy to see it for the first time now after about 700 km on the bike over mountains and ever more mountains. The city is known also one million Koku (bushels of rice) city and under the powerful Maeda clan became on of the richest cities in Edo-period Japan (Tokugawa period running from 1603 to 1868 and is the premodern era). Under the leadership of the Maeda’s culture, the arts and trade flourished and the city quickly became a hotspot for all kinds of traditional crafts such as lacquering, gold plating, but also theatre. The city is divided into different districts, Samurai Districts (old traditional houses and well preserved streets), Geisha Districts (with tea houses and ryokans), the Temple Districts (mainly Buddhist shrines and pagodas). Kanazawa is also home to the very famous Kenroku-en (pictures left), a garden of magnificent beauty and there are only three similar gardens in the whole of Japan. This garden had to be enjoyed early in the morning, I was there at 7am when it opened as the tour buses come by about 8/ 9pm. I had the whole garden to myself and it was an amazing experience. The garden’s name: Kenroku-en, is derived from the six (roku) attributes of a perfect landscape, spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, waterways, and scenic views. There are different natural landscapes from rivers, plantations, woodland and mountains represented in the typical Japanese garden (park style). There are also many tea houses which can be visited. I went into one, early in the morning and had traditional green tea and some sweets (for 300 Yen) and was received by a woman dressed in a kimono, who invited me into the tea room. Then I was served tea and sweets and was invited to enjoy the enclosed tea house garden and the tea house itself with many Zen-style paintings and arranged flowers. After sitting there for about 15 minutes another lady in kimono came in, went to the veranda, looked at the garden and invited me to join her to admire the secluded garden (it was not possible to get into it from the main garden despite being in the middle of it). I went onto the veranda and took a spot on the floor. The lady kneeled a meter behind me and we both sat there and enjoyed the peace and quiet. I did not notice her leaving. After a while it dawned on me that this ceremony was a typical Japanese gesture. Rather than just being told to look at the garden, there was a shared appreciation by two people. This was some kind of "aha-moment" for me as it provided a deep insight into Japanese culture. I sat there for another 15 minutes understood now why the trees were kept to a small size. They are meant to represent nature, but in a smaller scale. The streams are rivers, and the rock formations really seemed like mountains after a while. I was really profoundly inspired by this understanding. It’s kinda hard to describe. After the garden I went to see Myoryuji Temple (also called Ninja Dera) which can only be visited with prior booking (thank you Tourist information at Kanazawa Train Station) and the tour in only in Japanese. The English handbook to this amazing temple is pretty good though. The temple has a variety of trapdoors, hidden staircases and despite being a Buddhist temple it was a building designed for defence and strategy should the city be under attack. It is in an area where many samurai used to live and there are many other temples which seemed to have similar functions due to their solid structures, strong gates and good position. Here the streets ended in T-junctions which made it hard for an invading army to get to the main castle too easily. Kanazawa boasts with markets (for example Omi-cho market, which has 100 stalls with fresh fish, vegetables and all sorts of locally produced foodstuffs). It was hard to resist not spending my entire daily budget there. Kanazawa`s nightlife on the weekend is also pretty cool and I can recommend "Pole, Pole Bar", a place where many gajin go and the Japanese people have very good command of English which made it enjoyable to hang out there, something I haven’t done for 2 weeks. In Kanazawa I also met Minorou-san (picture right), a local crafts person, who sells his products (Noh-Theater masks & instruments) and many a thing near where I had my tent. He took me into his home where I tried various, rather challenging, foods from fermented soybeans to pickled plums. He showed me some sword drawing techniques. There I also met Ikuko-san (bottom picture), a singer/ songwriter who I got to see perform at Kanazawa Train Station Festival Dome. She also kindly promoted my little undertaking (1000 Miles challenge) to the whole crowd which was very funny and I felt rather "hashgashi" (shy) as I was center of attention. She makes the most amazing music using crystal bowls and her voice which seemed to put many people in a meditative state despite being in a rather noisy environment at this event. Kanazawa really has won my heart as one of Japan`s coolest cities and I really have enjoyed my last day here today with Yayoi-san who showed me Kanazawa`s famous Oyamna shrine and gave me another look at the Samurai district and its very unique layout, house & street styles, feature I missed when I went through here alone on the bike. Thank you to all those wonderful people who have made this stay in Kanazawa my longest in any city so far and who have shown me their city’s hidden niceties (especially the sweet’s shops) and who have opened their hearts to welcome a stranger. Thanks also to all those who have supported me doing this adventure!