Kanazawa 2019

The day began early, at 4am. Unable to go back to bed I tossed and turned for a other 2.5 hours before eventually getting up. The plan was, pack my stuff for the next 6 days and go to Tokyo to board the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Kanazawa. Take minimal clothing and food stuff so I don’t have to carry too much in my backpack.

After my usual breakfast, porridge with banana, I packed my stuff and left. I went to Kashiwa, then next biggest city to exchange my 7-day Reservation into the actual Japan Railpass. The pass allows travel across Japan including bullet trains, all inclusive. A great deal if you want to travel.

I got to Kashiwa but the station staff told me I have to go to Ueno, where the Shinkansen also departs from. By now, I was looking at the time and I wanted to really board the 10.30 train. I was cutting it fine. At Ueno I found the place to change the ticket but there was a long queue and lots of Rugby people. After all, it was also rugby world championships. 

By the time I got my rail pass I had 4 minutes to get to the Shinkansen. Which was halfway across the station, through multiple barriers and all the way 2 floors down. I also had to get my pass stamped. I ran. Missing this train would mean waiting another hour and getting to Kanazawa later than I really wanted to.

Shinkansen (Bullet Train) to Kanazawa. The line opened in 2012 and connects Tokyo, Nagano, Kanazawa.

With 30 seconds to spare I managed to literally jump into the train. Phew. What a morning. From having lots of time to just about enough. The train journey at 260km/h was pleasant and the time flew by really quickly. I managed to get through 3 big sandwichches that I made in the morning and also continued to dig into Ray Dalio’s “Principles” some more. It’s been an interesting read already, learning about how he built Bridgewater from the ground up and from his bedroom dorm to one of the most profitable hedge funds and money managers. His insistence on codifying the market, history and people and the discovery of principles that can help predict economic situations seems very intense. His big concept of idea meritocracy is still puzzling to me. It sounds interesting but also so hard to implement. In any case, the book is extremely insightful and stimulating as I get to the chapter of his “Life Principles”. 

Before long, Nagano zoomed past the train window and I still remember passing it on my journey but it took weeks to get there, not just mere hours. The train finally made its way past the Japanese Alps and I could see the big ocean appear on my window. I knew Kanazawa wasn’t far now. 

I finally arrived and it had just gone past 1pm. My hostel wasn’t far away, a 3min walk from the station, up top floors and top bunk. I felt like I had arrived. 

Picturesque Kanazawa with many old streets, dating back to Edo-period Japan.

After a short reconnaissance mission, I found the nearest bike rental. I knew Kanazawa was too big to explore on foot plus I knew I would enjoy roaming around the place by bike so much more. The bike rental guy spoke English and he was surprised at my mission to find Minnorou-San, my friend from 10 years ago who had ever so hospitably welcomed me to his house as I camped nearby on the banks of the Asano River. Some days earlier I had already localised the bridge that was close to and Minnorou-san’s house, thanks to Google Streetview. I knew where to go and was excited to say hello again to Minnorou-san. Fond memories flooded my brain on the way to the river. It was a 2km cycle and shouldn’t take long. 

It is such a huge difference navigating with WiFi and Google Maps vs analogue map and compass, as I did in 2009. The city seemed much less daunting and much smaller, the distances closer and any place was easy to get to. 

This is where I met Minnorou-san in 2009, we would sit on the river bank, share food and talk about life & death.

I arrived at Minnorou-san’s house but to my detriment I found it to be a bar/ restaurant with a sign for opening times outside. Gone were the tables of souvenirs outside and gone was Minnorou-san. I didn’t want to give up so easily and parked my bike and walked along the river bank. I walked all the way to the local temple and then headed back, past my camping spot. Upon spotting an elderly lady I thought she must know where he is or what happened to him. I greeted her and asked her whether she knew where Minnorou-san is. She said she does remember him and thinks he might have moved to an apartment nearby. She said she’s got time and that I should follow her. On the road, she discovered a ¥10,000 note (£75). She seemed surprised, but then not. She said there might be more. And indeed, we walked around a bit and found another 2 ¥10,000 notes. Strange. Did she loose them? Did she know there would be more?

Minnorou-San (2009), showing off his sword skills. He was an artist and local corner-shop owner.  I later found out that he was well-known in local artist circles, though a random conversation at a bar.

We went to the little corner shop opposite Minnoeou-san’s house and the old lady talked to the shop keeper and his wife. After a short discussion of what I wanted, they told me that Minnoeou-San moved to an apartment around the corner a few years ago but that he had died last year. I had to ask again. Minnorou-san is dead? Yes, he died last year was the answer. I was shocked. Thanking both, the old lady and the shopkeepers for helping me, I left the corner shop. 

I stood outside next to my bike, next to the familiar bridge and next to Minnorou-san’s house for why must have been another 10min. Emotions flooded me and a deep sadness overcame me. With tears in my eyes I stood there and just about noticed that the new owner of the house came out and spoke to me, in good but broken English. He wanted to know why I was here. I said that I was looking for someone but that the person is no longer here. I went to the local temple, the one Minnorou-san showed me and where he instructed me to pray for journey mercies. As he did then, I now also wished him a safe journey. I still remember sitting with him by the river bank, eating sushi and drinking sake. He would tell me about his Mongolian wife and his son and that he missed them so much. On another evening he would show me his photo album of Mongolia and of his family that for some reason was there, and he in Japan. I remember his tears when he spoke about them. 

All these memories came back again and of course also those of him showing me how to use the katana, with Minorou-san showing skilfully how to use the Japanese sword, in broad daylight, next to his shop. 

And now he was gone. My mind made up a story of him having died of heartbreak and loneliness. I knew fair well that I would never know but I do know that he was lonely and that he missed his family very much. The neighbors didn’t think he was typical Japanese as he was quite extravagant and outgoing. He was such a character and his warmth and openness made Kanazawa ever so special when I was there back in 2009. 

With great sadness in my heart I left his house and went to the nearby Old-town, a historic part of Kanazawa (Higashi Chaya) with lots of old streets and famous for its tea houses and Gaisha performances. I walked around and found a little coffee shop where I sat down and reflected over coffee and a fresh apple juice.

Higashi Chaya (District)

I let my mind ponder the experiences of Kanazawa back in 2009, how I spent my evenings with Minnorou-san, how I explored the city, and how everything is so different now. I fine I thought. This is life. Ray Dalio’s “Principles” came to my mind and one principle has got to be “Life is unpredictable, make the most of it”, for we do now know when it ends. My own mortality has always been something I was acutely aware of, even from a young age. I saw people and animals around me die and was forever reminded that this current life can be tragically short and end apruptly. 

Higashi Chaya (District)

I got back onto my bike and back to the hostel. By this tome it was already late afternoon. I decided to take a nap, 40min, and then use the local onsen (hot spring) located in a nearby hotel. I knew there was a discount t voucher available from the hostel reception and as I enquires the front staff said that they ran out, but will get me one shortly. I slept quickly and deeply and woke up by my alarm. I was so ready for a soak and the overall onsen-experience. It’s one of the things I do love about Japan that you can go into any town and there will be a local bath or spa and that it’s super affordable, £1.5-£5 depending on its size and scale, comprising of hot tubs, dry and wet saunas, inside and outside pools. 

The Apa Hotel onsen was a typical hotel onsen. A couple of pools, a dry sauna but also an outdoor roof area with 3 pools. Gosh, that felt so relaxing and cleansing. I stayed on the roof top in the hot pool for some time and as I reflected on the day’s events and on death, Michael Jackson’s “You Are Not Alone”. Interesting I thought, what a timing. 

I finished bathing and headed back to the hostel and got myself ready to get some food and to roam around a bit. I knew the area for doing just that, which was a 2km bike journey. I checked on Google for some good food places and then for a joreigner-friendly bar to drown my sorrows. Just kidding. I was ok again and the day’s events were washed off, I felt. 

I cycled into downtown Kanazawa to try one of the many excellent fresh seafood places. I had some sushi, fried salt fish and a sweet potatoe and burdock bake with seasonal mushrooms. Great stuff. Afterwards I went to a local bar with foreigner friendly staff. The place was as described and there was an American guy some Japanese girls and a super friendly bar tender. We all got chatting about life here, in the US and about travelling. The bartender usually closes his bar over winter and goes travelling. He’s been to over 70 countries and spoke really good English. A few small beers later and it was time to head back and get some well deserved rest. By now I didn’t need the satnav as I memoriesed the way back. It was daily easy and just like in the afternoon, Kanazawa had shrunk. It was a much smaller city as it was back then in 2009. I blame google maps and 10 more years of experience of travelling and being around as a human being (and human doing). 

The hostel was pretty full and I could determine 3 different people snoring. Thankfully the reception had free ear plugs... good night!