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| Kanazawa-Jo (Kanazawa Caste) |
The city has been around as a settlement during the Muromachi Period (1336-1573) and rose as a city under Rennyo, a Buddhist priest who took control of the city during his reign (1440-1499) and established “The Peasants’ Kingdom” in the region. This eventually was overthrown by Maeda Toshiie, the founder of the Kaga Domain (also known as Kanazawa Domain). The Maeda rule lasted from about 1600 until the end of the Édo Period (1868), which was also the end of the Feudal Japan, with the abolishment of the Togukawa Shogunate. The Maeda’s ruled over the biggest part of the Togukawa Shogunate from their seat here at Kanazawa Castle. Their rule spanned an unbelievable 14 generations. Thankfully, the city was spared any bombings in WW2 so many of the streets still retained their Edo-period character with many of the original samurai houses and tea houses still in their original style and build. This makes Kanazawa an amazing city to roam around in and especially in the Higashi Chaya (Gaisha District) and Nagamachi District (Samurai District) you can almost feel what it was like here a few hundred years ago. The architecture, the roads and waterways make this an amazing city to walk around in or, ideally, to explore by bicycle :)
After a good night sleep I got up around 8am, made myself some porridge (yes, I brought porridge with me from the UK). Had some green tea and made some more for the day. The plan was to go to Kenroku-en, the famous garden in the heart of Kanazawa. Fond memories came back whenever I thought about it and my first visit 10 years ago. The main difference was in the season I visited. Back then it was April/ May when Japan is blossoming left, right and centre. This time it was very different. There are very few flowers that are blossoming in October and the leaves haven’t really started changing yet. Japan generally is best visited in Spring or Autumn to either watch the cheer and plum blossoms (and flowers generally) or in Autumn for the Koyo (Autumn Leaves).
I left the hostel around 9 and cycled to Kenrokuen, which was a 2km cycle. I bought a ticket for both, the garden and the Kanazawa-jo (Kanazawa Castle), which is a bit cheaper than buying it separately. One of the most memorable experiences back in 2009 was the visit to the tea house inside the garden and enjoying the strong matcha (green tea) with a traditional sweet, and marvelling at the immaculate display of Ikebana (flower arranging), which is often seasonal and very expressive.
Getting to Kenrokuen in the morning is generally sensible to avoid the crowds that descend upon it during later hours. The garden hadn’t lost any of its magic touch. The lakes and sculpted trees were ever so beautiful and walking around was very calming and relaxing. I was still comparing it to 10 years ago when the garden and it’s plum blossoms were still in bloom and various shrubs were displaying an array of blue and red flowers along the rivers and streams.
I leisurely arrived at the tea house whiteout looking for it and almost assumed it was closed as the doors were shut and there wasn’t an “open” sign. I sat on the bench next to it to check the opening times online but couldn’t find it. Eventually I probed the front door and it was open, what a surprise. It had just gone 10am and It looked like I was one of the first people there. I took off my shoes and ordered matcha tea, which comes with a traditional sweet. I was shown to a waiting area where I left my bag before being escorted to the main tea room. To my surprise it really was empty and I had the whole place to myself. I sat down and after a while a young woman in Kimono came with my cup of matcha and a plate with the sweet on it. In the most gracious way, she knelt in front of me, carefully placing the tea and plate at my feet. She bowed before getting up again and disappearing behind a wall divider. The large tatami room had 2 flower displays on each side and in the middle opened into the tea house garden, secluded and shut off from the main Kenrokuen garden. Sitting there you can marvel at the flower displays or gaze at the garden, which opens up at the end of the room.
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The experience of enjoying a simple cup of tea with a small sweet is indescribable. The atmosphere in the tea room, the carefully arranged flowers in 4 areas of the room add to the special flavour overall. Conscientiousness, care, dedication and a highly crafted cultural awareness permeate the mind. Stillness and reflection set in. Everything is designed to be simple. The tea, the sweet and flowers. Everything works in unison to allow impressions to form in the mind. Past, present and future become one and are condensed into the present moment. Right here, right now.
After some time, an elderly lady came to tell me that I may come and enjoy the garden by the window. This was the same as last time. I picked a spot away from the open doors, hiding to the left of the wooden terrace so that I’m case other guests come, they don’t have to see my back, but can also look out onto the garden. Already feeling quite mellow and tranquil, sitting there on the porch and looking at the sculptured trees, the stone paved path and a carefully wrapped, single stone on one of the pavement slabs provided enough stimuli, to just be. There was nothing I needed, nothing I wanted and the mind continued to be still, letting the garden impress its serene beauty upon the still and receptive mind. Occasional thoughts of impermanence and change filled me. The seasons were not only reflected in the arranged flowers, which showed the changing season in a beautiful display of red leaves, some of them eaten up by bugs. The change to Autumn and the unstoppable demise of the leaf going into winter left a big impression on me.
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| Tea House Garden (stone display) |
The days become weeks, the weeks become months and before you know it the year has come and gone. This life seems very precious and it’s important to do the stuff you love doing, filling it with meaning and not allowing “business as usual” or worse, with something resembling a job you don’t love and people you don’t enjoy being with, to strongly influence you. I feel very lucky to be able to come to Japan and to spend time here, away for just long enough every year to allow for the big reset button to be pushed and to continue doing what I do back in London, which is what I love doing. But combined with these strategic breaks becomes a way of life for me that brings balance and fulfilment.
After the tea house I strolled around some more and eventually came to the end of the route through Kenrokuen. It’s been a pleasure. Again, an unforgettable experience. Next time though, for sure come and visit in spring. It’s a very different park with all the blossoms out.
After Kenrokuen, I headed over to Kanazawa-Jo, the castle and surrounding garden. I’ve seen many castles over the years and Kanazawa castle is a really pretty and recently part-reconstructed. The ticket buys you entry to the part that’s been carefully reconstructed, showcasing how they re-built it, some treasures they found and also providing some great views over Kanazawa.
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| Kanazawa-Jo (Castle) |
By now my stomach told me it was time to find something to eat. Google maps provided some great suggestions for local Ramen. I found a restaurant (Ippudo Kanazawa Korinbo Restaurant), not far from the Museum of Modern Art. When in Japan, I somewhat let go of me being pescatarian as you can not avoid eating meat if you love Ramen. I usually order ramen without the pork / meat but the broth is often a meat-stock.
Lunch was unbelievably delicious. I had ramen with extra egg and extra vegetables. The restaurant straff were super friendly and an English menu makes things much easier.
After lunch I went to the museum of modern art, a small gem not far from Kenrokuen/ Kanazawa castle. I went to see the painting exhibition and strolled around in the museum for a good hour. Really enjoyable and a stimuli to my senses as the paintings and photographs were mind-bendingly intriguing.
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| Great exhibition of modern art at the Modern Art Museum |
After the museum I knew it was time! Time to hit the onsen. Already during my train ride to Kanazawa I had spotted a “super-onsen” called Mantenno yu. I know these types of onsen really well and they comprise of many baths, inside and outside, different saunas, a massage parlour and a restaurant. My back has been playing up for the last few days roaming around on foot and on the bike and a strategic back massage would do me some good. I soaked for about an hour before getting a 40min back massage. I think I actually drifted in and out of consciousness during the massage as my body was already super relaxed from the bathing and sauna. The guy seemed to know what he was doing and strategically attacked my lower back pain.
After the massage I hit the restaurant for some soba noodles with salad and some grilled fish. Not the most spectacular food but it was ok and for just under £10 within my budget, which was slightly blown up today considering the massage (£30). I usually try and get by on less than ¥10,000 a day (£75), which doesn’t include breakfast as I’ve got my porridge with me. ¥10K gets me comfortably through the day when travelling in Japan and sight-seeing and I often have left over money. The lunch was ¥1400, Museum ¥800, Kenrokuen and castle ¥500, Spa entrance ¥750, Massage ¥4000, spa food (dinner) ¥1300 and drinks in the bar that evening ¥1800 (3 small beers). Often, living off ¥5000/day is totally doable, especially when cycling.
I couldn’t quite pass the opportunity to go for another soak after the massage so I went back. Having totally forgotten my towel in the hotel and not wanting time fork out another ¥250 to rent one, I had to rely on “air-drying” myself outside. This was made easy with a pool-side TV where I watched the Japan vs Russia World championship in Volleyball. After the first game Japan was in the lead and I was ready to leave the onsen.
I headed back to the bar from yesterday called Tobira “Travellers Bar”. After spending much of the day by myself and with myself, a bit of human to human interaction in a language you actually understand is a good thing. The bar was empty when I arrived but Osugi, the owner, was again super friendly and we chatted about travelling. Eventually more guests, Japanese and Foreigners arrived and we ended up chatting about work-life balance, which is a concept people understand here but is so hard to attain. People often work long hours, have little flexibility and almost no holidays. It’s even seen as impolite to take them all...
After some drinks it was time to head back to the hostel. On the way I bought some milk for tomorrow’s breakfast. At the hostel I managed to slip off the bunk bed stairs and end up with a few scrapes on my side and elbow. They are literally the most badly designed and build stairs I’ve ever seen and unless extremely acrobatic, must lead to many falls or injustices. I took some pictures to show to hostel management as the stairs are literally the worst I’ve ever seen, anywhere.
Despite this small annoyance, the day in Kanazawa was amazing and I will surely be back here one day. In fact, we've agreed to meet again in 2029 with Osugi-son.Lets see what happens
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