Day 18 - Bikers, Beaches & Blue Skies: Nichinan to Tonda (79/ 872km)

Sunday mornings are the best. You can wake up in style, have breakfast or lay in. Not for me! I wanted to get as far north on the west coast as I could with the day’s cycle being a fairly relaxed one. I had already picked two things to check out, the first was Udo Jingu, a historic and important Shinto shrine and temple ground as this was the mythical birthplace of Emperor Jimmu’s father Ugayafukisezu. Now emperor Jimmu (Jimmu-tenno) is Japans first emperor with his ascension traditionally dated around 660 BC, and marked as National Foundation Day in Japan on 11 February every year. According to legend, Udo Shingu is the place where the sea goddess Toyotamahime built a birth hut from feathers of a cormorant. While the myth includes a tragic divorce of Ugayafukisezu’s parents, the shrine is popular with young couples hoping for easy childbirth and a happy marriage. 

The ride was a short 15km along the west coast of Kyushu, with its dramatic cliffs and amazingly blue and turquoise waters, popular with surfers. The ride was against the wind as on so many days and I really struggled on the first Kilometers as my muscles weren’t warm and I was still a bit impacted by my night cap…let’s call it a small hangover. Luckily, this area is popular with cyclists and bikers who enjoy the road along the coast. A group Of racing bike enthusiasts initially overtook me and I decided to put in a bit of extra effort and join them a road train is the best when fighting uphill and against strong headwinds. Eventually, they stopped for a break and I got to the shrine quickly. I walked around and marvelled at the buildings and coastline, with the waves crushing against the rock formations. An impressive sight to behold. I did as many Japanese did, bought some earthen pebbles and tried to hit the big rock. Men had to throw with their left hand, women with their right. I did not succeed with my 3 tries and the pebbles bounced off the stone. Others were more lucky. I kept 2 pebbles for keepsake before making my way back towards my bike, with a quick and essential stop at the ice cream stand: mango ice cream time! Before I went onto my next stop I had to stop at a small restaurant as I hadn’t really eaten anything yet and I was hungry. I ordered a battered shrimp set, which came with lots of veggies, rice and miso soup. Super friendly owner and I chatted to my neighbours, who had a local lobster variety, as sushi…and somehow still moving. Hmmm.

Southwestern coastline, Kyushu

Road train! Thanks guys

The Devils Washboard (old school washboards looked like this?!)

Ritual leader for good birth!

My second stop was a small “shrine” dedicated to all things Studio Ghibli (the Japanese equivalent of Americas Disney Studios). The ride was another 10km away. Wherever I could, I decided against Google route recommendations to stick to the coastal route and not take the more modern roads, which often led through long, dark tunnels. The coastal route was popular but luckily it was Sunday and there were hardly any lorries, just many cars, bikers and cyclists. This was the largest number of bikers and cyclists I have seen here in Japan, ever, on one route and on the same day! I don’t blame them, the roads were amazing and the weather was spectacular. I made sure I put as much sun cream on all the exposed bits especially my neck as I would have the sun behind me for most of the day. The Ghibli stop was a nice break for some more water, before heading onto the longer part of the cycle. I passed some spectacular stone formations in the ocean, with many locals either picking clams and kids hunting for small fish. 

Now it was onto more busy roads towards the biggest town here, Miyazaki. The time went by quickly and the cycling was as good as it could be. I made another stop for some more ice cream as the sun was roasting! The rest of the journey went smoothly, with only a small upset with the Onsen I picked being closed, permanently by the looks of it. Oh well, next stop campsite near Tonda, right by a derelict outdoor swimming pool. The campsite was great and right next to a local park with toilet/ was house, some more little structures and as I arrived I chatted to two elderly people who were feeding the local cat population. 

As I started to build my tent, the elder man came towards me and said I should build it higher up by like 20m to be safe from tsunami. I thanked him for his suggestion but stayed were I was as the ground was flat, smooth and without pine cones and in case of a tsunami, 20m will not make a difference. 

I knew that I will be in a remote campsite so I bought dinner at a local supermarket: sushi rolls, salad, cucumbers, nuts and fresh pineapple pieces. Water and drinks are usually available everywhere from the drinks machines so I wasn’t worried. I also spotted a fireplace and picked some dry wood for later on. As it got dark, my tent pitched and prepared for the night, I settled down on my little makeshift fireplace and had dinner, did some more route planning and chatted to friends online who will be coming to visit Japan in a few weeks. It’s nice to be connected, where’ve you go these days.

Around 10pm it was bedtime. I knew tomorrow was going to be raining at some point so I wanted to get up early and get as much cycling done as early as possible so I could maybe avoid the rain. 

It is futile to ponder 

the ways of the world

I am lost in desolate musing—

I have loved some and hated others

even hated the ones I love.