The day started fairly relaxed, in bed, with nowhere to go and nothing to do! I woke up around 8.30 and went to the nearest Starbucks which was like 30min away and a drive through on a big coastal road. It was still raining and the hotel umbrella made itself useful again. I did some blog writing, coffee drinking and cake eating in Starbucks. It felt good to not have to cycle in the rain and to just chill. After coffee and blog I headed back into town, in search for some breakfast. My legs were also hurting a lot, especially my thighs. Maybe there’s a massage place in Nobeoka that could help?
Luckily, Nobeoka had a few places and some even nearby with 2mins walk. I studied some reviews and one place seems good so I checked it out. Once I got there I was greeted with a surprised face as I guess not many foreigners stroll into here on a Tuesday morning! After some back and forth on google translate, we managed to arrive at a 20min treatment with some kind of machine that was and in between version of Thors Hammer and a thumper from Dune, and a professional who knew how to use this, as the actual massage therapist was fully booked and only available in the evening. We went ahead. I only had to take my jacket and shoes off, was placed onto a massage bed and then the sweet torture began. I wasn’t quite aware how bad my legs were hurting until the massage therapist worked her way up and down my body. The machine had various settings, painful and excruciatingly painful. I dipped in between both, hoping it’ll help my lags recover more quickly. I was surprised they hurt like that but after yesterdays ride, and…the cycling so far, no wonder.
After the massage place I decided to check out some local coffee spot but as I got there it was closed, even though it said open on google. The bakery next door was open however, and I treated myself to some savoury baked goods. As there was nowhere to sit, but just takeaway, I stood next to the bakery, shielded from the rain in a small passage. To my surprise, the lady from the other coffee shop walked past and we were both happy to have met again. I told her that I was sad that the coffee shop was closed next door but she pointed at it angina saying it just opened, a bit late.
I had the biggest portion of waffles with ice cream, banana and some frozen fruits. It was delicious!!! I’ve indulged in baked goods since early morning and I was loving it. We also both had coffee and continued our chat from yesterday. We talked about current affairs and the rise of the machines (AI, in particular ChatGPT), which is also a big topic here in Japan as some prefectures want to use it to guide visitors through the use of chat bots, powered by AI. We also talked about the dangers of AI and that some professions might eventually become obsolete, for example, marketeers, accountants, lawyers…the list might go on, considering where automation has and will be replacing humans bit by bit: taxi drivers, lorry drivers, machine operators; how close are we to a future that resembles I Robot or it’s dystopian cousins like Terminator, ex-Machina or The Matrix. Take your pick but it feels like we’re on the verge of another huge revolution and leap in technology.
After brunch, I continued to explore the city, this time its Buddhist shrine, up on a hill, with a huge Buddha statue overlooking Nobeoka. This was a good trek and as it was still raining, I was one of the very few people walking around town, huddled under their umbrellas and rain capes. The walk up the hill towards the shrine was pretty steep but the shrine itself and the surrounding area, a magnificent experience considering that Nobeoka isn’t a large town. I visited most of the little mini shrines and the large Buddha statue on top before heading back down, with a few detours, exploring a small bamboo forrest, with smaller shrines worshiping foxes (Inari Shrines, the Shinto deity of harvest and rice). I’m continually surprised how both, Shintoism and Buddhism are so intermingled and coexist happily side by side. F the very few people visiting today, surely due to the rain but it shrouded the surrounding mountains in a beautiful envelope of mist and rain and gave the bamboo forest something mystical.
After the shrine, it was time to head over to the little local onsen, which had just opened. More rest for my body can only be a good thing! It was around 5.30 and the bath was more busy than yesterday. Unlike in most onsen/ public baths where people sit on their little wash stations before heading into the “bathtub” or pool, here the men were sitting around the bathtub and I was being asked to join, but wasn’t too sure so took my station on the side. Silly me. Eventually, more men came and the deal was you sit around the round bathtub and was there. Oh well :)
Once I was finished I headed to the hotel which was just a few blocks away, changed my socks as they were wet from walking in the rain and had a rest. Next stop dinner! After 2 attempts, I found a place that wasn’t too busy and served both cooked/ fried and raw foods, from fish to salads to meat. I stayed at the bar as it is usually easier to communicate with the chef. I pointed at a few things I saw on google, as the menu was in Japanese, but had some nice drawings that I just about interpreted. I had some barbecued fish and a huuuuge salad bowl. Both the waitress when I ordered asked if I wanted a smaller one than on the menu and even the chef had to enquire again if I was sure about that salad bowl. I was very sure!
Once the bowl came, I understood. It was huge but at the same time also just what I needed, alongside some protein, no rice. The chef also treated me to a cooked oyster, something I couldn’t decline even though in hindsight I should have as it was so big and I didn’t really like oyster that it took me like 6 mouthfuls to finish it. I don’t think I’ll eat another oyster again…
It was now around 9 and I wasn’t sure what else to do so I looked up some bars, one stood out on google with good reviews. I headed up onto the second floor wehere I was greeted with a resounding “Irashai” (Welcome) from all 3 bar keepers! We established that my Japanese was nonexistent due that google translate was going to be our best friend. The other two guests joined in the conversation and after 30min we were all laughing at one of the guests accents, which google just couldn’t make any sense off, even the bar tenders said they’re struggling sometimes. The guest didn’t mind at all and we challenged each other in a darts competition made-up of patrons and bar staff, a 2 vs 2. Gosh, everybody knew how to play darts there, with some people repeatedly hitting the centre of the darts board as if it was the easiest thing. I got lucky a few times and eventually our team won, and I treated my team member to a drink. Eventually, it was time to head home as I wanted to get up early the next day to head into the mountains. I hadn’t fully planned all of the route, I only knew I wanted to get to Tachachio to see the stunning gorge, surrounding nature and see what all the rave was about. I knew it was going to be 50km to get there but I had no plan what to do afterwards, whether to stay there or whether to continue, making more progress to get back towards the coast. I guess we will have to see.
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| Red done, blue to go…Up into the mountains! |
As if lured by the storm
the blossoms are strewn about,
white upon the garden floor,
Yet, all this whiteness is not snow—
it is me who withers and grows old.
Which also reminded me of the elevator poster in my hotel, which went:
Life is not as long as you think
(Seiji Fuji, Patriotic Essayist)
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