wo weeks it was time for a scenery change. The Noto Peninsula with Kanazawa at its feet, Wajima on the top and Tayama again in the South would be my journey for these five days where I did some 450 km along the coast. I started out in Kanazawa where I was woken up by Minorou again who would invite me to his home where I would have my last Miso soup and rice. I left Kanazawa with both sadness and joy at the same time, because I met really cool people here and because I began to really get used to this very cosmopolitan city. It has been the best four days here in a city so far and I have not seen everything the city has to offer. This will have to wait for next time. For now, I was also happy to have some road under my tyres. On this day I would, for the first time, see the Sea of Japan. I took the Toll Road (or better its nice cycle path) up north to get to Wajima. The Japanese cycle paths/ pedestrian walkways are excellent and going north was pretty straightforward. I tried to stay by the coast whenever possible, but this sometimes meant to get off the bike and walk through the sand dunes as these have shifted onto the cycle path. 
The first very interesting thing on the first day was the Coast Highway - a Highway directly on the beach, no concrete, just sand. There is two-lane traffic, without any signs or hard shoulder of course. On one side water, on the other dunes and some small shops. I had to get on this road. For the next 2 km I cycled on sand, which was hardened by the cars going over it - spectacular. In the evening I put up camp by the cost with amazing views over Gammon (a rocky coast with many caves).
The next day I got to Wajima where I quickly needed to find an ofuro (public bath). With this accomplished I went to the supermarket and then back to the beach-side camp. There I met Yoshiaki and Nishiyama, fellow travellers on motor horses (moped/ motor bike). We had much fun
in the evenings trying to communicate in English and Japanese. The next day I went to town to check the morning market. Wajima is a fishing town and the morning market reflected this. Wajima is also known for its durable and colourful lacquerware and there are many shops selling local crafts ware. I was not tempted by the fish and the laquerware was pretty expensive so I just strolled along. Thinking I found a post office I went into one shop but it turned out to be a liquor store with Post Office flags in the front. However, they did have free internet. In the evening Yoshiaki and I would make a campfire and as he offered me some of his grilled fish I could not say no. This decision was not easy considering I have not been eating fish for six years. However, the scale in the public bath told me to do something as I have so far lost 8 kg. This was not a good sign and my tofu and beans diet for protein wasn’t doing it. From this day onwards I would have fish for the next few days, eating at least 1.5 kg in 3 days and managing to keep my weight where it was. The fish must have also done something else for my now worn out body as my wrists stopped hurting and my muscles recovered quicker after a day riding, so it seemed.
in the evenings trying to communicate in English and Japanese. The next day I went to town to check the morning market. Wajima is a fishing town and the morning market reflected this. Wajima is also known for its durable and colourful lacquerware and there are many shops selling local crafts ware. I was not tempted by the fish and the laquerware was pretty expensive so I just strolled along. Thinking I found a post office I went into one shop but it turned out to be a liquor store with Post Office flags in the front. However, they did have free internet. In the evening Yoshiaki and I would make a campfire and as he offered me some of his grilled fish I could not say no. This decision was not easy considering I have not been eating fish for six years. However, the scale in the public bath told me to do something as I have so far lost 8 kg. This was not a good sign and my tofu and beans diet for protein wasn’t doing it. From this day onwards I would have fish for the next few days, eating at least 1.5 kg in 3 days and managing to keep my weight where it was. The fish must have also done something else for my now worn out body as my wrists stopped hurting and my muscles recovered quicker after a day riding, so it seemed. 
From Wajima I went to the furthest part North-East to see the Lighthouse, the famous terrace rice fields and checked out the Onsen. This day was spectacular despite a challenging ride along the coast. The onsen made it all worth it again. After then 120 Km I was pretty tired and I just wanted to fall over by the roadside. I stayed by the beach and put up my tent just there. Friendly locals told me not to make fire but all I wanted was to eat (salad & 500g fresh fish) and sleep. The next day was another 80 Km along the coast with spectacular sight of the mountains which must be over 250 km away and over 3000 m high and seemed ever so fearful knowing I have to climb over them again. By the 30th I got to Toyama where I needed to urgently find an ofuro, photo shop, supermarket and camp spot. Overall I have now done 1180 Km but one of the most challenging parts was still to come, the Northern Alps and 500 km. My body is starting to get tired quicker but I am sure that with a better diet and simply eating more everything will be fine.
Here some stats:
Weight at start of the tour: 80 Kg
Weight at present: 72 Kg Total distance covered: 1180 Km
Average daily distance: 70 Km
Longest daily distance: 120 Km
Highest speed: 68 Km/h
Lowest speed: 2 Km/h (with eventual standstill walking up to the Noto Lighthouse)
Daily food intake: 6 slices of wheat toast, 2 eggs, 1 tomato, 1 Grapefruit, 3 Bananas, 100 g bean sprouts, 1 small cucumber, 300g tofu or 500g fish, 100 - 180g peanuts
Daily liquid intake: 3 - 4 L (tea, water, juice)
Bike repairs: 2 flat tyres, 1 rear tyre exchanged (worn out), 1 inner tube exchanged (dead), 1 brake block exchanged (worn out), rear rack fixed (welding gave up), front cog repaired (lost a screw and bent the cog)
Pages written in diary: 60 Din A 4
No comments:
Post a Comment