Day 11 started as day 10 ended, in my tent. The 2 older guys got up early and started chatting and having breakfast around 6am! I turned around for a bit but couldn’t really fall asleep again so eventually got up at 7 to make breakfast: porridge with banana, Goji berries and chia seeds. I also had some leftover boiled potatoes...of which I ate 2, with genmaicha tea (roared rice / green tea).
I had a small chat with the guys before starting to pack my stuff together. All in all it took 2h, I was in no hurry. The sun was out and I needed to dry my tent which got wet overnight.
Eventually I set off into the mountains - a 1,000m climb over 20km...past some amazing scenery, plant life and road. It was super empty and I think I must have been the only person in the road. For the whole 2 hours I saw 3 cars, of which 1 overtook me. The colours of the trees changed from late summer to autumn, the birch trees started to loose their leaves and all the leaf trees started changing. I was probably still 2-4 weeks early for the real “leaf changing season” - Autumn Leafs (koyo), which starts here in mid-October. Regardless I really enjoyed climbing uphill, some Music in my ears and a steady pace up. Eventually I made it to the viewing platform with little up left to go. I had my second breakfast/ lunch at around 12. I knew I had to prepare for today as there would be no cities for miles. Thankfully I had 2 toast with egg and 1.5L of drink. Up here the clouds were so close you could put a stick in them, swirl it and eat it it.
After lunch it was time for the longest downhill ever, 40km!!! I was lucky it was sunny but it was a bit chilly so I put my jacket and gloves back on. Tightened all the roadwork holding my luggage and off we went. That was sooo much fun, i did still have to pedal but it was always downhill and with a good tail wind I didn’t have to do all that much. I met the only 2 other cyclists today and we greeted each other as I flew past them, they went up, I went down. I did not envy them.
After another 10km or so, “clank” - I knew already what that was the moment I heard it. Another spoke was gone. I stopped inspected the damage, took the damaged spoke out and loosened the breaks as the wheel would surely get more wobbly. That was annoying, seriously.
I knew I only had about 20km to Engaru, the next biggest city where I would be able to find a bike shop. And I did. The shop looked tidy, well organised and the older gentleman had a couple of seats. It was a typical “hana chan” (old lady’s bike) shop. I saw many spokes lined up, all sorted neatly by length. This was looking good I thought. He took by rear wheel out and already I wondered why he would do it the way he did, with my bike clamped up and lifted up, he too my tyre off. Normally you just take the wheel out and then the tyre out. I thought ok, maybe it’s his style. After a while I realised that he’s stuck at something. Having observed the guy 2 days ago I knew the next step. Take the gear cassette off, with a special tool that’s made out of part. Bike chain and a big lever to hold the cassette As you insert a special bolt into the cassette to loosen it. He didn’t have the tool, I could see it. He loosened the axle (pointless) and I intervened asking if he’s ok. He then admitted he didn’t have the tool, how could he not? It’s a bike shop?? He went searching for an old chain and together, him holding the old chain with a wrench, and me loosening the cassette we managed... we then worked together to get the new spoke in. It was strange knowing/ feeling that this was a different kind of bike mechanic to the one from 2 days ago, his workshop was messy but with safe hands and all tools he did the job in no time. I can do it too by now, having seen it twice and being part of taking the cassette off.
Anyways, it turns out i cannot tighten some spokes any further, having reached their max. That’s not good news because if another one goes there may be little room to align the wheel again. That’s gonna suck, so let’s hope it won’t happen.
Off I went, to a camp ground I had picked earlier. As I got close to it, it smelled of animals (cows/ pigs), which this area is known for. I didn’t wanna stay there so I picked the next thing, another camping ground 15km away. Just as I set off I thought I should check the local hot spring or onsen, when I saw a hot spring inn. That looked/ sounded interesting. As I got there 3 elderly people came to the door. Also, I could see a few Zimmer frames. Hmm, an old people home? I asked them where the onsen was, luckily only a few streets further. I told them I may/ May not come back. At the onsen I had ramen, very tasty. Kind of gotten used to the fact that I am eating meat (the stick is most likely pork) but I am ok with that. The onsen was fantastic (7.5/10) with very well equipped wash area, 4 got pools, a cold pool, an outside area and a sauna. Great stuff!!
As I rested there the thought of forging on to the next campsite was strong. I knew it would be dark soon but I didn’t want to stay where I was. I set off again, no food and no other drink, hoping I can pick up something on the way. Nope, there was nothing till I got to the campsite and here only a machine with drinks. That was ok. The campsite was amazing, water, softest ground ever and toilets. I made myself a tea, had some Goji berries and did the blog. It’s 20.30 and another traveller just arrived, frying something. He “knocked” on my tent whether I’d like to have some meat, but I declined saying I’m veggie, but thanks so much.
Today my charger pack comes in handy, charging both phone, WiFi box and head lamp. I’ve used it a couple of times now but I could have done with a smaller one, and without solar charging. But, at least I ever needed to...
With today’s long journey of 109km, we are back at the coast. I’ll see where to next, maybe down the coast and see how it feels before probably going back, this time southern central Hokkaido with its many high mountain lakes inside old volcanoes. That should be fun
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