Probably one of the toughest days of cycling yet. It didn’t look like it and with 64Km to my intermediate stop (Wakoto Hot Spring), right in an old vulcanic mountain lake, not too bad I thought. I couldn’t have been more wrong and the side profile of the Google walking map should have already been a pointer.
Leaving camp this morning was quite nice. I slept ok, which is always great and had my earplugs still in as the campsite was close to main road. I managed to keep all the mosquitoes out during the night so that was ok too. My campsite neighbor, Tomoyoshi was already up and cooking something. That was my cue too and I got the pans and pots out for some porridge and tea. We chatted as we made breakfast, which is quite nice. Another American dropped in who had camped further down with his girlfriend but he didn’t stay to chat as he had to make coffee (and get back to his mate). It reminded me why I was doing this alone. You’re forced to engage with people as you don’t have a mate to talk to. You’ve got to interact, meet people, ask for directions and make conversation. That’s not needed so much if you’ve got someone with you. I think
Camp was packed away by 9 and I think I left by 9.30. It seemed that the wind had almost completely turned from yesterday and can from inland. I had either strong or pretty strong head wind no matter where I turned. Considering I was going south predominantly there was no avoiding it. A few kilometres down the road I stopped for some drink and obligatory ice cream.
On we went. The road was not so good on the countryside lanes so I had to watch heavy pumps and cracks all the time. Eventually I got close to the road to Kontonoripuri - the inactive volcano crater. The journey up the volcano was 1300metres up over 15km. I also saw many young people, probably junior high school kids walk that distance today. So impressive.
It seemed the road up did not want to end. Another corner and other twist. Eventually, the trees got shorter and fewer and eventually there were almost no trees left. I had to stop for a water break every couple of kilometres and I was pretty much soaked from sweat. All the while, lots of cars and lorries past on the way up, it almost seemed to br a big main road and not some way up the mountainside of a scenic vulcano/ lake. After what seemed like an hour and a half I managed to reach the top. It had started to rain and I quickly put on my shorts over my cycle pants and jacket. I watched the kids come up the mountain too, some collapsed from exhaustion but the sense of accomplishment was there.
I went for a quick check to the viewing platform but I was cold, exhausted and wet. I needed to get warm first and ideally eat something. There was a mountain top restaurant and shop where I had lunch and also bought some raisins (they will come in handy at some point). After food and warming up I braved the weather and this time went all the way up the viewing platform. Never before had I seen rain come at me from below. The wind pushed the rain up the mountain and into my face. I could see individual droplets shoot past me or at me, from below. What a strange sight.
Eventually I packed my stuff and continued to Wakato Onsen, a natural hot spring inside lake Kussharo (5the volcanic crater). The downhill was amazing. With literally no effort I reached the hotspring where 2 Westerners were already bathing. The were American, teaching English in the local town (where I’d head to later). They asked whether I’d come in - what a question. Of course. Previously I read reviews about this hot spring but as it was late in the season there were very few algae and not many people. So time to follow suit with the Americans and go natural. What a feeling to have all the pains and aches melt away by what felt like 42C water temperature. The spring was pretty clean and we had a good chat with the other guys. Eventually some Japanese people came and joined.
From the Americans I found out what to do and where to stay in Teshikaga. The typical Japanese Ryokan Manshyu (Inn) was apparently the place to stay and also had a hot bath and good breakfast. The place to go at night was King Kong, a small jazz bar.
The Ryokan was good, the room was big and all typical Japanese, so tatami mats, futon and low tables. But they had a western toilet and also a more comfy sitting room arrangement. All my tech was dead by now, incl. my battery pack. I’ve put phone and WiFi box to charge, with lights and battery pack later. I had a bath and then went for dinner. I was still exhausted from the climb and it was pretty cold and a bit wet. I found a small diner where they were getting ready for a life music session of local latent. Literally anyone could come, and six musicians did. It was a fun few hours. I then went to King Kong and was the only guest. That had to be my favourite bar. Everything was crooked and the old guy seemed from the movies. He played his jazz LPs or CDs and we talked a bit. I ate again, potato salad and he brought a cold fish delicatessen (part of a fish, with fish egg and a special sauce made of cold soy sauce, sake and something else). An acquired taste. I stayed and had a sake before hearing back to the hotel, for a very, very final soak in the hot pool. It’s so convenient here in Japan as these baths are so frequent.
What a day, I’m done. Tomorrow will be no different, maybe even more challenging as it will be serious mountains and it’s forecast to rain
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